SELVEDGE DENIM - SEWING

Originally called ‘self-edge’, the selvedge refers to the narrow tightly woven band on either edge of the denim fabric, parallel to the warp. A selvedge end prevents the edge of the denim from unraveling. Old 28 to 31 inch shuttle looms produce denim where selvedges are closed, whereas on larger modern weaving machines, the weft yarn is cut on every pick, creating what is called ‘Fringe’ selvedge.

SEWING - single needle construction

In the 3x1 universe, a single needle sewing machine is the tool of choice. This means they actually sew each of these garment sections twice, instead of using a double needle machine. This is unusual, but for 3x1, sewing these operations on a single needle machine renders a clean, beautiful, one of a kind garment every time, making it an absolute necessity

CRAFTSMANSHIP

Every jean or denim product is sewn one piece at a time, there’s no assembly line at 3x1, and ready to wear styles are typically limited to just 8, 12, 16, 24, or 36 pieces of production per style with every piece individually numbered. Just 22 to 25 pieces are produced each day in the 3x1 atelier. 

A pair of 3x1 jeans is noteworthy for many reasons but one of the most apparent is the quantity of stitches per inch (SPI). Typically the more stitches per inch, the higher quality the sewing and the greater durability of the product. The typical SPI found in a regular denim product is somewhere between 7 and 9 stitches per inch – for a 3x1 product it’s between 11 and 14, or 50- 70% more than the average jean. The 3x1 team strongly believes that customers appreciate the difference, and know that taking more time with every step leads to a more beautiful, longer lasting product.

They make a pair of jeans the way a master tailor creates a bespoke suit, by hand. They’ve made it their mission to reinforce the value of time spent doing high quality work, which is why each sewer focuses on only one pair of jeans at a time, ensuring the highest level of attention to every detail, and complete ownership of the process from start to finish. There is as much individuality, handwork, and pride in a pair of 3x1 jeans as there is in any handmade object you would find from the finest luxury brands in the world.

Brand Watch - Velvet Johnstone

We've been watching this brand for a little while and seen them grow into a very dynamic design leader in... read on

Velvet Johnstone is an East London based womanswear label establishing a genuine niche for itself in the world of contemporary luxury fashion, creating modern and seductive work through innovative design and complex pattern cutting.

Fusing luxurious and hi-tech new fabrics and styling with the harder, masculine edge of tailoring to create complex yet feminine collections and bespoke designs for private clients in the know.

inspired by the female form to accentuate either sympathetically or in contrast, to complement the individual, both physically and personality. .. perfecting a dress to significantly portray a character, giving a confidence within self or in creating a desired persona. 

 

vj in XO magazine.... Photography by Leoni Blue. styling by Faye Heran..